05/19/2009


La Bella Dona. This morning, we took a train (into Florence), and I sat across from a woman I named (in my mind) La Bella Dona, the beautiful woman. Although her face was lined and careworn, I did not think of her so much as old, as timeless. She closed her eyes with the gentle movement of the train. I looked out the window at the landscape passing by, and whispered "bella" (beautiful) under my breath. She opened her eyes, looked at me, then out the window, snorted, and went back to sleep. What a commentary on people, and human conditioning! We see beauty in the new experience; while we miss the beauty of the ordinary (day-to-day) experience.




Because of our learning experience just 2 days earlier, a decision was made that I stay with Dr. Remley (much slower paced, "personalized" guided tour). We went into Santa Maria Nuevo (church), and I was duly impressed and awed. I understand the restrictions on photography inside churches and museums, but still wish I could have taken some photos. At 10:30 (before lunch!) we stopped for gelato, and I made the observation that Italy is a seamless blend of old and new... plastic chairs in 1,000 year old building; motorcycles rushing past medieval churches. And, it seems right, somehow. We met up with part of the group for lunch at Thirteen Hunchbacks, a restaurante in Florence. I tried something different (sorry, Brie!)- fried rabbit. It was delicious (and served with fried eggplant and fried green tomato!)



After lunch, I took a taxi (by msyself) to Galleria dell'Academia (The Academy, the mseum housing Michelangelo's David and the musical instruments collection of the Medici family) while everyone else walked. What a great experience! The first question the cabbie asked was if I spoke Italian. I said no, we began a dialogue (he speaking fluent English). I learned his favorite Italian cities (Siena e San Gimignano), that he was going through university, driving a cab to support himself (I remember working through school; don't we all?) and he wants to visit US for a year or two after graduation. In between learning about my driver, he pointed out sites of interest, and I was totally awed by the city.



The Academy, from the outside, was not what I expected...lines of shops and street vendors, tourists (foreign and Italian) and locals...kind of like City Stages back home! I caught up with my gtoup, we got our tickets and went inside. Dr. Tyson had told us the first time he saw David, he wept. I can understand why; I too, got choked up upon my first encounter with this majestic, magnificent statue. No matter how many pic tures and replicas you see beforehand, you have no concept of the awesome immensity and minute details of the statue. The musical collection of the Medici, including paintings of Ferdinand and his musicians, took my breath away on a different level. Life is such a musical experience, and to see the instruments used to create this art form appreciated by the nobles and rulers of medieval Italy, imbues one with an intimate understanding of their time.



After The Academy, I took a cab ride back to the train station, again, while everyone else walked. My cabbie was laconic... I'm not sure if driving a cab was "just a job" to him (Europeans don't have workaholics like we Americans do), or if he just didn't speak English. We arrived at the train station at 4:10pm (our meeting time was 5:15), so the first thing I did was locate our meeting place, then set off to encounter modern Italy. I saw a sign, Ristorante, and figured it would be a good place to buy aqua. EEK! McD's! Even in Europe, I can't escape the fat-fried-fat! I turned to walk out, and a man approached me: matted, grey beard, disheveled clothes, wide open, bloodshnot eyes; stumbling...as he approached, I caught a pungent whiff and side-stepped him. I went to the cafe express next door and bought an aqua (water), and decided to go to the sala to sit and wait. As I began walking that way, I saw three carbinieri (police) rush past me; when I got to the sala, they had the same man cornered. I don't know what they said, but I have a good idea. In Italy, much is tolerated, but public drunkenness is not. Vino is drunk with meals here (much like soda back home), and one is expected to not abuse it. I went into the sala, sat down, looked at the clock, and after about five minutes, went out again. This time, I went into the leather shop, and a woman came up to me, pointing at a baby bottle, and making gestures like vomiting. I said "no Italian", she kept on. I shook my head & shrugged, she kept on. Finally, I resorted to Spanish... "non comprende". She threw down her hands in disgust and walked off. I felt badly, I recognized she was in distress, but didn't understand what she needed or wanted, so I couldn't help her. Although these experiences might be considered negatives by some (after all, it is very possible/probable the woman was a grifter, trying to hit a mark), I considered them positives; a contact/connection with Italy, and her people.